Mangaia is an island of incredible, serene beauty - from its rugged coastline to the lush green interior. It is peaceful beyond belief, for those accustomed to the constant rush and haste of the world beyond the reef. This is a place where one can trek for miles along the coast, or in the interior and not meet another soul or hear a vehicle. Nor see any dwellings, just lots of well-tended plantations of pineapples, vegetables, taro, kumara and a variety of other crops.

Believed to be about 19 million years old, Mangaia is a raised atoll surrounded by layers (from 2 to 6 layers in several places) of jagged limestone coral known as Makatea. The makatea in some places are 60 metres high and about a kilometre wide. Numerous trees, shrubs and plants grow between the coral limestone forming the makatea forest that surrounds the exterior of the island. Linked to a running stream in the valley is a brackish water lake formed against a makatea cliff. Numerous limestone caves are scattered throughout the makatea forest some of which have been used as ancient burial sites.

Geologically, Mangaia is the oldest island in the Cooks Group. One of its most fascinating features is an amazing series of caves that run through the makatea. Teruarere Cave is a seemingly endless series of interconnected chambers adorned with huge stalactites and impressive stalagmites rising from its wet floors. Here amongst the labyrinths is the last resting place for previous generations whose remains can still be seen by torchlight.

The topography of Mangaia is similar to that of Atiu, but on a much larger scale, for Mangaia is the second largest of the Cook Islands. From a shallow lagoon inside the surrounding reef, makatea (fossilised coral) rises in steep bluffs and cliffs and drops just as dramatically into the interior, giving an impression that the island is encircled with a giant wall. Between the interior hills and the makatea are fertile fields of rich volcanic soils and swampy taro fields. A few tiny, sandy coves can be found tucked in the coastal makatea providing secluded places for swimming and sunbathing.

Lush Taro plantations and vegetation are located in the centre of the island at the bottom of the makatea and in the central valley. Mangaia has many caves, many of which can be reached via a short trek over the makatea to yawning openings that run deep into the interior.

There are various tours carried out on the island including a variety of cave tours, a 4-wheel Safari cross-island tour, special interest tours, and beach and inland picnic tours. There are two motorbike and equipment hire outlets - Moana Rentals and Mangaia Bike and Equipment hire.

Market day in the ‘town’ centre on Friday mornings provides an excellent opportunity to buy fresh local produce and to check out the ornate craftwork made by skilled Mangaian women. The ‘ei pupu shell necklaces (yellow and white strands of tiny snail shells) are a specialty of the island. Together with woven pandanus bags they are labour intensive, but sold for reasonable prices.

Mangaia is 45 minutes by air from Rarotonga; accommodation is limited but comfortable and it is wise to book ahead. Guided tours are available that include caving, reef/lagoon walks, bush walks and deep-sea fishing. All guides have an intimate knowledge of the island’s geography and history. Mangaia is a destination for those who want to get off the ‘beaten track’, who love the outdoors, appreciate warm hospitality and enjoy tranquillity.